Churning brilliance
2014 Riesling
Salty honey, melon and mineral explode with acidic fireworks straight at you. Viscous banana and sharp fresh paper placate and shred the nostrils at once, vibrant and alive, churning brilliance.
All your Riesling dreams and goals are coming to life in this one, boys and girls. This is one not often trotted out in trendy recent who’s-who lists of California Riesling, but this grandfather from Napa GETS IT. Where your hipster groupings run somewhere between "interesting" and :odd," this Spring Mountain stalwart cranks out the goodness it has for DECADES.
In the mouth, lilokoi coats the tongue, sweet and peppery, lavish and razor-sharp, curious curls of petrol greasy syrup fall around, elevating and propping up the eviscerating acid. Fat and ripe EXACTLY where it needs to be, but chubbiness surrounded by chilling minerality makes for a textbook Riesling.
Experience and creative skin in the game
2014 Riesling
Why (why?) do we not drink more Riesling from California? From Napa, even? Yes, I know (I know...) that Napa wins with its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and even with its Sauvignon Blanc. But, if you're a college football fan, that's a little like saying Alabama, USC or Ohio State are going to win the NCAA title this year, so what's the use in all the other teams even playing? Come on. You know that there's more to it than that, that it's the chutzpah that makes it interesting, and that there are winemakers in Napa with a lot more experience and creative skin in the game. Stu and Charles Smith have been working these vines -- these specific Riesling vines in a specific location on the slopes of Spring Mountain -- for more than 42 years now. They get what needs to be got from it, and put it all in the bottle.
High-spirited spot-on Riesling
2014 Riesling
Fragrant citrus blossom, slate and hints of earth show brilliantly on the nose with this high-spirited spot-on Riesling. White peach, Meyer lemon, crushed herbs, honeysuckle and a solid thread of minerality simply dazzle the palate. Impeccable balance and verve carry through the long, lime-accented finish.
Zesty acidity
2014 Riesling
Lemon, honey, cinnamon and peppermint dominate on the nose, completed by a juicy, sweet grapefruit palate. There’s sufficient zesty acidity to make it refreshing, backed by typical Riesling characters that last on the finish.
Long and luscious
2014 Riesling
Absolutely delicious, this bright and lively 100% Riesling prompted several “Wows!” and more than a few “Riesling from Napa?” remarks when I poured tastes for friends. All of us were delighted and rightly so. Fresh aromas of lemon, yellow flowers, orange peel, stone fruit, and minerality burst from the glass. Clean and gracious, notes of juicy citrus and minerality, zesty acidity and a round mouthfeel were dominant with each sip. The finish on this crisp, dry Riesling? Long and luscious.
Excellent acidity
2012 Riesling
Light blonde in the glass, this wine smells of petrol and citrus peel. In the mouth, tangerine peel and citrus pith mix with crackling crushed stone minerality. Excellent acidity. While this wine may have had a hint of sweetness when first released, it is headed towards savoriness. It has entered its second phase of maturation, leaving its fruity youth behind and heading towards something more sophisticated.
Perfect balance of fruit and acidity
2014 Riesling
Our number one choice and our favorite is a dry Riesling from Smith-Madrone. It is the perfect balance of fruit and high acidity. The nose is of peach blossoms and lime. The wine is so smooth on the palate and it has an incredibly long finish. The pairings of food and wine combinations with this bottle are endless.
Regal on the palate, delicious as always
2014 Riesling
Napa's best Riesling was also on offer this week, in the form of the annual bottling from Smith-Madrone on Spring Mountain. This vintage is particularly charming….Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of citrus pith, mandarin peel, and a touch of diesel. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of Asian pear, mandarin juice and pink grapefruit have a gorgeously bright aspect thanks to excellent acidity. The wine finishes quite long and regal on the palate. Delicious, as always.
Truly fantastic wine
2014 Riesling
Pronounced aromas of crushed stone, petrol, white stone fruit, citrus and jasmine; dry racy palate with medium+ mouthwatering acidity, elegant with medium body, great minerality/crushed stone on the palate, long finish; this wine is truly fantastic, makes a great summer pairing with sushi, seafood, salads, poultry, shellfish, frittata, pizza, etc;.
Big personality with a tiny footprint
2014 Riesling
This waxy, stone-scented mélange mingles citrus, guava and passion fruit and offers a succulent finish.
90 points
2014 Riesling
The 2014 Riesling from Spring Mountain is light straw in color and highly aromatic with a floral nose, stone fruit and up front tropical fruitiness. Medium-weight with good density, it is easy drinking and offers considerable pleasure.
Classic Riesling characteristics
2014 Riesling
The vines are grown on Eastern exposures, honoring the international steep slope tradition. The age of the vines is 42 years, very mature, giving outstanding depth and complexity, in my opinion, not achievable by vines in their early leaf years. The aromas delivered the classic Riesling characteristics. A good amount of petrol, a bit carbonated, stone fruits like apricot, lime rind, wet stone, and white peach flesh. The taste was a bit off-dry, though the acidity was crisp, the body was medium and the tannins were moderate, well-integrated. On the palate, kiwi slices, grated lime rind, wet stone minerality, stone fruits, apricot, peach, and nectarine. The finish was long and persistent. This wine is recommended, my score, 90 points.
Superb
2014 Riesling
The aroma of orange blossoms and a faint trace of earthy/TDN give this superb wine an off-dry impression, as does the entry because the wine is so rich, and has a trace of sugar. But the wine is relatively dry since the acid level is so perfectly suited for the intensity. Sensational with Thai cuisine.
Exquisite example of impeccable balance
2014 Riesling
The 2014 dry Riesling from Stu and Charlie Smith is an exquisite example of impeccable balance combined with intense aromas and a final result that is greater than the sum of its parts. The nose offers an alluring minerality that is impossible to miss but hardly overwhelming. With zesty green fruits, yellow citrus and pear notes, the flavors are remarkably complex. The palate is smooth, with a long, clean finish. Drink now or cellar for several years. It will only get better with a bit more time.
94 points
2014 Riesling
94 points: Smith-Madrone sticks with their Riesling planting because they love what it does, and you should love it as well. Pay no mind to the California Riesling haters -- this is the real deal, delivering fresh pear, stonefruit, white flowers and mixed citrus in a crisp, dry, refreshing package that will make you wonder why every California winery isn't making and promoting Riesling. Those in the know can tell you that dry Riesling goes with just about anything at the table -- and that it ages well. Cheers to the Smith brothers for ignoring alleged market trends and continuing to make this stellar wine.
Perfectly balanced acid and weight
2014 Riesling
A reticent nose but a compelling palate with streaky flint and slate, dandelion and orange zest held together by perfectly balanced acid and weight. It just needs more time in the cellar to bring that nose to bear and fully develop.
Riesling is a wine geek’s wine. It’ reflects terroir like no other, and since it does well in many, many climates and is therefore grown all around the world, we can experience a lot of different terroir through the lens of one grape. Further, it ranges from bone dry to very sweet, which makes it even more diverse a grape to explore, especially with food (wine pairing: one of the most passionate interests of a wine geek). These factors combine to make riesling exponentially interesting to people who like to pay close attention to their wine, which makes riesling’s commercial struggles all the more frustrating because it puts an artificial ceiling the amount of production by providing a lot of financial disincentive for wineries to produce the grape, let alone put a lot of effort into it.
It is fitting that Smith-Madrone was the inspiration of the tasting as its owner and winemaker, Stu Smith, is an outspoken proponent of the grape who makes it despite the difficulty he has selling it because he believes so fundamentally in its importance and worth as a varietal that speaks to the very best of what wine can be. In addition to myself and Isaac, our tasting panel included other riesling lovers who we felt would understand why we were doing the tasting and enjoy the experience: Washington Post wine writer Dave McIntyre, wine consultant Alison Smith Marriot, and two serious oenophiles/drinking buddies of mine. And then we had a special guest…Stu Smith of Smith-Madrone Winery!
Stu was able to swing by about fifteen wines into the tasting and catch up to the group by the end. It was a real pleasure to have Stu and Julie Ann join us in an effort to further appreciation of the grape Stu seems to feel the most passionate about. The wines were tasted blind in a randomized order and, knowing that his wine was the impetus for the tasting, the unveiling of his wine as a consensus top-3 pick came as what I would imagine was at least a little relief, though who were any of us, really, to pass judgment on the wine of a Napa icon? More than anything, I (and I imagine the rest of the group) am just thankful Stu continues to prioritize a high quality riesling given the lowly demand for it.
94 points
2014 Riesling
Entirely estate grown from dry-farmed grapes, this white sparkles with waxy apricot and pear flavors and crisp, underlying mineral stoniness. Dry, with refreshing acidity, it doesn’t skimp on mouthfeel, delivering a viscosity that’s invitingly complex and lingering.
A great wine
2014 Riesling
Sometimes a great wine goes happily down the hatch and I make a mental note to buy it again. Sometimes a great wine sucks me in hook, line, and sinker and I want to learn everything about the who, what, where, when, why, and how. The Smith-Madrone Vineyards 2014 riesling did just that. I’d been gardening in the sun for several hours and was starving. I grabbed some leftover grilled chicken, a few tortillas, a splash of salsa, and a bottle of riesling to enjoy in the backyard. Riesling on a hot day, enjoyed al fresco, is the quintessential wine moment. I went from sore and angry at the snails and white flies on my hibiscus, to relaxed and appreciative of life in Orange County. A glass of Smith-Madrone produced this 180-degree attitude change, so I feel compelled to share my “5 W’s” research with Orange County wine lovers.
Who Brothers Stuart and Charles Smith. Stuart is the general partner and enologist. Charles is the winemaker. Sam Smith, son of Stuart, is assistant winemaker.
What 2014 riesling, 1,500 cases. 2014 chardonnay, 850 cases. 2013 cabernet sauvignon, 1,500 cases. The soil is rocky, volcanic, and has great drainage.
Where Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley. The vineyards sit at an elevation between 1,300 and 2,000 feet on steep slopes, with grades up to 34 percent. Each varietal is planted with a specific exposure, to garner the best character and personality.
When Planted in 1972. The riesling vines are 42 years old!
Why The brothers grew up in Santa Monica. Stuart got his Masters in Viticulture from UC Davis. In search of land for a vineyard, he learned of this forest location atop Spring Mountain, which he purchased in 1971. He discovered it was actually a vineyard in the 1880s, and was on the Wagon Trail between Napa and Santa Rosa. Stuart is now renowned as a mountain winegrower. Charles, who became an internationally famed croquet player, joined him in 1973.
How The mountain-top location and the history as a vineyard inspired Stuart to dry-farm the vineyard. Dry-farming means that no irrigation was given once the vines were established several decades ago. This forces the vines to struggle in search of water that is deeper in the soil. This struggle produces berries that are hardy enough to endure the thirsty challenge. The grapes are smaller in size, but packed with flavor.
I would love several hours at a dinner table with Stuart, Charles, and Sam. The stories and connection they must have from this family venture high in Napa’s mountains is the perfect dinner and drinking lore. The closest I’ll come is a refill of riesling in my own backyard, but I have a big smile on my face.
Expertly crafted
2014 Riesling
Bright nose of limey minerality, apricot, banana leaf and peach. The palate is medium bodied with a high viscosity and cutting acidity. Loads of lemon, lime and slate on the initial hit, followed by white pepper as it turns to key lime pie with whipped cream and a hint of nutmeg and gets lush. The acid carries through on the long finish. Expertly crafted riesling with a promising decade of evolution ahead.
Consistency and a keen sense of place
2014 Riesling
Smith-Madrone's wines are made from well-tended, well-loved, dry-farmed vines. The wines are a lean, elegant, and focused expression of cool climate, mountain terroir. They reflect a consistency and keen sense of place . . . and good stewardship.
Beautifully dry and just plain clean, this might just be my favorite Napa Valley Riesling. Bright, sassy acidity. Loaded with minerals, wet rocks, green apple, lemon rind, and pears. A long, rewarding finish ends with a hint of honey. This Riesling has aging potential in spades
Absolutely exhilarating
2014 Riesling
If our Wine of the Week, Smith-Madrone 2014 Napa Valley Spring Mountain Riesling, had a proprietary name it could be "Mountain Joy" for the high-elevation pleasure it imparts. It has the suave delicacy of grapes grown in rocky mountain soil with long light exposure and cool temperatures, along with a bit of the swagger and sass this varietal can display when handled with care and understanding.
On the palate, the wine offers an almost tempestuous swirl of fruit, full and lively, a merry-go-round of apricots, white peaches, nectarines, papaya, mango, pineapple, ripe Gravensteins and suggestions of orange honeydew melon. There are hints of orange flower blossoms, citrus zest, and enough mangosteen to make you long for a trip to Malaysia, where that elusive fruit is queen. This wine is best with the tangy foods of Southeast Asia, especially Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam. Thai larb with pork or squid, green papaya salads, green curries and the Vietnamese noodle salads known as "bün" are happy companions. As an aperitif, you'll enjoy it with feta cheese, green olives and Marcona almonds. For an easy weeknight dinner, enjoy a glass alongside a quick sauté of chicken thighs, sliced celery, sliced radishes, spinach, olive oil, lemon juice and fresh snipped chives.
A simple taco of corn tortillas filled with avocado and radish salsa is a quick and delightful pairing, as are open-faced radish sandwiches with creme fraiche or fresh chevre. It is also excellent with most simple green salads.
The wine is also absolutely exhilarating with green papaya salad.
Wine of the week winner is impressive
2014 Riesling
The Latin poet Virgil wrote “Bacchus loves the hills,” and he was on to something. Smith-Madrone’s riesling is planted in vineyards perched at 1,900 feet and it’s impressive. This dry riesling’s rich mouth-feel is kept in check with its bright acidity. It has notes of honeysuckle, papaya, apple and petrol. With its depth of flavors and lingering finish, the Smith-Madrone is striking.
A nimble partner which ages beautifully
2014 Riesling
Contrary to what the poet said, April is not the cruelest month, at least not when it comes to wine. If you’re wondering what to pour with your Easter meal, Passover Seder, or any Spring celebration, this is the month to leave behind the heavier wines of winter and bring on brighter, lighter bottles. Read on for wines that tick all the boxes: Delicious, organic and/or sustainably grown, affordable, and widely available. You can thank us later.
Smith-Madrone Riesling: For delicate, white-fleshed fish, such as spring’s first flounder, a nimble partner is this bottling, evoking ripe honeydew melon spritz with Meyer lemon. If you spot an older vintage, grab it. This wine ages beautifully for years.
Wine of the Week: best riesling in Napa Valley, hands down
2014 Riesling
Amid the millionaires, castles and vanity wines that spring up in Napa Valley, there remain salt-of-the-earth types who came here without pretense, with a love of the land, and the grit to conquer the rugged terrain in the name of fine wine. The Smith brothers (Stuart and Charles) epitomize that renegade spirit of the second wave of individualists who came to Napa Valley and made something out of nothing.
Their foresight should be legendary: they listened to forebears; looked at the steep slopes of Spring Mountain and saw great wines. One of their most sought-after productions is their riesling, and the 2014 has laser-like fruit focus with refreshing, yet deeply nuanced, complexity. This is the best riesling in Napa Valley, hands down.
Lovely structure
2014 Riesling
This high elevation Riesling wine shows brisk acidity considering the heat of the vintage. Aromatically subdued at first when needing a one hour decant, this wine begins with a bouquet of white roses, honeysuckle, unripe pear and petrol. There are deep flavors of Gravenstein apple, unripe honeydew melon, lemon rind and a touch of green papaya. This has lovely astringency and structure, as this currently displays an almost unctuous mouthfeel. Drink 2017-2022.